There’s nowhere in the world like St. John’s. This remote port on Canada’s easternmost shores has attracted explorers, pirates, soldiers and inventors since its founding in 1497. Drive to the top of Signal Hill to survey the harbor—one lined with lonely, barren cliffs of heart-aching beauty. Watch icebergs float by the size of freighters in waters also brimming with minke, humpback, fin and right whales. Head out for a daytripping eco-adventure on the East Coast Trail to see archeological dig sites, seabird colonies and the world’s southernmost herd of caribou.
The “townies” of St. John’s are a lively mix of Anglo, Irish, French and Aboriginal heritage. You may need to strain at first to understand the lilting local brogue and centuries-old sayings, but the universal language of laughter is common ground here. Even the local food is fun: try doughboys, salt fish, brewis and toutons, but don’t forget the nouvelle cuisine either. Head to a Celtic pub on George Street, where you just might end up “running-the-goat,” a group dance fueled by catchy traditional tunes and Newfoundland’s famous rum.
St. John’s steep streets are lined with brightly painted wooden homes sloping down to the harbor. In Old St. John’s you can view restored Victorian homes and 26 stained glass windows in the Basilica Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, completed in 1855. Take to the streets at Mardi Gras in October and for the six-night George Street Festival in summer. And each year the Nickel Independent Film Festival pays tribute to the now closed Nickel Theatre. Whatever the season, you’ll find yourself part of the community.
